Page 37 - 2023-2024 Travel Guide to Canada

passenger traffic is Halifax (coincidentally,
the birthplace of cruise pioneer Samuel
Cunard). It is noted for its deep harbour and
charming waterfront attractions. Charlotte-
town (home to Anne of Green Gables and
world-class golf), Saint John and Sydney
(gateways to the Bay of Fundy and Cabot
Trail, respectively) are other top calls.
Specialty sojourns that focus exclusively
on this area are increasingly available;
however, most cruises begin or end in New
York or Boston, meaning you can see key
ports in as little as four nights. Extended
itineraries are offered, too. So boats may veer
across open seas to Newfoundland, where
ports like St. John’s (a centuries-old city that
also features on transatlantic trips) and
Corner Brook (the launch pad for Gros Morne
National Park) extend a warm welcome;
or they may head through the Gulf of
St. Lawrence and follow the eponymous river.
INLAND ADVENTURES
This second alternative is rapidly growing in
popularity, and rightly so because the fabled
St. Lawrence has much to recommend it.
Woods, whales, fjords and photogenic
headlands make it an eastern answer to B.C.’s
Inside Passage—one infused with Québécois
charm. Consequently, pocket-sized ports that
showcase its natural beauty have emerged as
destinations in their own right, while two
marquee stops routinely win rave reviews.
Québec City, after all, is famous for its
UNESCO-designated fortifications and
beautiful heritage buildings; while Montréal,
one of the world’s largest French-speaking
cities, has a storied past that is accented with
cosmopolitan élan. The vessels that visit these
ports cover an impressively broad spectrum in
terms of size and style. Luxury lovers can live
large on Cunard’s renowned Queen Mary 2, or
opt for intimacy on American Queen Voyages’
boutiquey Ocean Voyager and Ocean Navigator.
The mere arrival of the latter—a pair of 202-
passenger sister ships which began plying
the St. Lawrence River and Great Lake routes
in 2016 and 2018, respectively—further
illustrates the way that entries on the
Canadian cruise scene are maximizing the
potential of the inland waterways.
NORTHERN DELIGHTS
The once-frozen Arctic is heating up as well
and, in summer, when seas are navigable,
there are ever-increasing possibilities for
bucket listers and nature buffs who feel its
magnetic pull. Quark Expeditions and
TORONTO, ON • SHUTTERSTOCK/DAVID YATEMAN
Adventure Canada, for instance, both put new
vessels into service on the Arctic Route in the
past few years; tellingly, the first of these has
a new polar expedition ship, Ultramarine,
equipped with two twin-engine helicopters,
20 quick-launching Zodiacs, spacious suites,
wellness amenities and numerous outdoor
wildlife viewing spaces.
Admittedly, such voyages aren’t for
everyone. Specific destinations can be hard to
pinpoint due to the vagaries of tides or weather;
and landing places, sometimes accessible only
via Zodiac, aren’t necessarily ports per se since
the population might consist solely of
35
walruses. The upside is that the “Great White
North” has great white wildlife (think polar
bears, beluga whales and snowy owls),
unspoiled scenery, plus a rich Inuit culture; and
the vessels that sail here can get cruisers up
close to it all. As an added bonus, the majority
have resident experts well-versed in subjects
like natural history and Indigenous customs
who will share their knowledge through formal
lectures and guided excursions.
With choices like that available, there’s
never been a better time to come aboard in
Canada!