nova scotia
Where Mother Nature Meets Father Time
By Susan Maccallum-Whitcomb
Tenuously connected to New Brunswick by a slim sliver of land, then tethered by ferries to PEI and Newfoundland, Nova Scotia acts as Atlantic Canada’s anchor. Yet this small but mighty spot—the most populous and prosperous of the four sister provinces—offers travellers within the region far more than a convenient location. Its sensational sites are must-sees in their own right.
A Sea-bound Coast
The scenery alone can make you want to linger indefinitely. After all, Nova Scotia is essentially surrounded by water, and every stretch of its 13,000 km (8,000 mi.) coastline promises adventure opportunities as well as oh-so-fresh seafood. Yet each also has its own distinctive character.
The Minas Basin, for one, is a magnet for migrating shorebirds, hundreds of thousands of which descend each summer to dine on its mud flats before flying to South America. Nearby, the constant beating of the Bay of Fundy tides uncovers 300-million-year-old fossils in Joggins’ UNESCO-designated cliffs. The South Shore, conversely, is dotted with centuries-old towns and sheltered coves once frequented by privateers; the Eastern Shore boasts pounding surf; and between them is Halifax, home to one of the world’s largest natural harbours. Northumberland Strait, meanwhile, is notable for warm, sandy strands, whereas much of Cape Breton is marked by loch-like inlets and rocky highlands that drop dramatically to the sea. Inland, the geography is equally varied, which is why A-type vacationers can explore the orderly vineyards of the agricultural heartland and the wondrous wilds of the Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve within a single day.
A Storied Past
Like its scenery, Nova Scotia’s man-made attractions cover a broad range, from museums to parks, art galleries to golf courses. Historic ones, however, are especially plentiful here because the region once played a crucial role in the imperial plans of both British and French forces.
The star-shaped Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, for example, is a literal highlight of any visit to the capital city, and the meticulously recreated Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site lures history lovers north to Cape Breton (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/halifaxcitadel; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/louisbourg).
The Annapolis Valley, which contains some of the continent’s oldest European settlements, has even more in store. Visit Port Royal National Historic Site, founded by the French in 1605, three years before they established their base at Québec City (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/portroyal); Fort Anne National Historic Site is of national historic significance because of the site’s role in early European colonization, settlement and government in Acadie and Nova Scotia in the 17th and 18th centuries (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fortanne); and the gorgeous Grand-Pré National Historic Site, located within the Landscape of Grand Pré, one of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the province, commemorates the area as a centre of Acadian settlement from 1682 to 1755 and the Deportation of the Acadians, which began in 1755 and continued until 1762 (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grandpre).
The Best Of Both Worlds
Since Mother Nature and Father Time happily coexist here, there are many places where you can get a fresh perspective on the past while inhaling fresh air. The Fundy Geological Museum, for instance, has a tour that combines an overnight horseback riding tour with an actual fossil dig (fundygeological.novascotia.ca). And perhaps that’s Nova Scotia’s biggest asset: it offers the best of both worlds.
What’s New?
In Halifax, visit Georges Island National Historic Site. It’s just a quick boat ride to the island, where you can explore outside the fort or join a guided tour to walk through the tunnels. The initial role of Georges Island was to protect the new settlement of Halifax from a sea attack. It was also used as a prison in early years and, during the years of the Acadian Deportation (1755-1763), it became a holding area for large numbers of Acadians (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/georgesisland).
Experience eco fun with the only land sailing experience of its kind in Canada featuring Blokarts with Tidekite ReWIND Adventures on Mavillette Beach (www.tidekite.ca).
Learn about the heritage of clam digging on the Eastern Shore by visiting Memory Lane Heritage Village and then accompanying a fourth generation professional clam digger to dig your own clams at Clam Harbour Beach. The best part is that you get to return to the Village for a “feed” of clams, along with a traditional lumber camp meal, in the Village Cookhouse (www.visitmemorylane.ca).
Peggy’s Cove is one of Nova Scotia’s most iconic attractions. The expansive granite rocks, rugged coastline, crashing waves and historic lighthouse exemplify quintessential Nova Scotia. It is also a living community, an active fishing village, and home to year-round residents. The new viewing platform honours the cove’s unique location while making it accessible to all (www.visitpeggyscove.ca).
And visitors can now take in an intimate, interactive and uniquely Nova Scotian cultural experience at the Schoolhouse Ceilidhs. Experience traditional Cape Breton fiddle music as it was meant to be heard…and pick up a few dance steps and Gaelic words along the way! The Ceilidhs are 30-minute performances held three times daily from May to October (www.theschoolhousens.ca).
City Lights
If you need an urban fix, Halifax is the place to go. Although this is Atlantic Canada’s largest, most cosmopolitan city, its tourist centre is conveniently compact, and most major attractions—the Halifax Citadel, the Historic Properties, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 among them—are all within blocks of its huge natural harbour. Tempting shopping, dining, and nightlife options are close at hand as well. After strolling around the bustling waterfront boardwalk, you can take a leisurely harbour cruise or follow the locals’ lead and hop a commuter ferry for a quick cross-harbour trip (www.discoverhalifaxns.com).
Sydney, technically part of the Cape Breton Regional Municipality, is Nova Scotia’s only other urban centre. Located on the Island’s east coast, it has its own waterfront boardwalk and a smattering of heritage buildings. Moreover, it makes a handy base for exploring attractions in nearby Glace Bay, including the Marconi National Historic Site, which is dedicated to the Italian radio pioneer who established a transatlantic messaging station there in 1902, and the Cape Breton Miners’ Museum where you can don a hard hat and descend into a coal mine. The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site is 45 minutes away by car (www.cbrm.ns.ca).
The Great Outdoors
Nova Scotia has been dubbed “Canada’s Ocean Playground,” and since you’re never more than 67 km (42 mi.) from a coast, enjoying on-the-water activities is easy. Boating is a top draw, which is no surprise considering options include sailing on Bras d’Or Lake or paddling along ancient Mi’kmaq canoe routes in Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site. Scuba diving and deepsea fishing are also popular; ditto for surfing, a fun if somewhat frigid alternative on the South and Eastern Shores. Looking for something truly unique? Experience the rush of rafting on the Shubenacadie River, where a tidal bore whips up big waves.
Landlubbers, of course, needn’t feel left out. Choices for bikers and hikers abound. The former love to pedal on the 119-km (74-mi.) Rum Runners Trail connecting Halifax and Lunenburg; while the latter lace-up their boots in places like Cape Breton Highlands National Park, which alone has 26 trails. If golf is your game, world-class courses span the province. Standouts range from traditional favourites like Highlands Links and Fox Harb’r Golf Resort, to newer stars like Cabot Links and Cabot Cliffs, acclaimed sister courses.
Heritage And Culture
Nova Scotia is Latin for “New Scotland” and descendants of its Scottish settlers make much of that connection—particularly on Cape Breton Island, where you can take a class or buy a kilt at North America’s only Gaelic college (www.gaeliccollege.edu), raise a glass at the continent’s first single malt whisky distillery (www.glenoradistillery.com), tour the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre (www.celticmusiccentre.com), then dance your feet off at one of the summer ceilidhs (traditional Gaelic-inflected parties) held Island-wide. The province, however, isn’t entirely draped in tartan.
After all, events like Festival acadien de Clare (www.festivalacadiendeclare.ca/en) and the Musique de la Baie concert series (www.yarmouthandacadianshores.com/en/things-to-do/view/musique-de-la-baie) are tuneful testaments to the strength of francophone culture here. Mi’kmaq com-munities carry on the legacy of this land’s original residents through powwows and other special programs (www.novascotia.com/travel-info/our-culture), while contributions made by new arrivals are celebrated at the moving Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (www.pier21.ca).
Must See, Must Do
Nova Scotia is home to a diverse range of premium quality seafood, from their world-famous lobster and coldwater shrimp, to snow crab, scallops, oysters, clams, haddock, halibut and more. From traditional lobster suppers and roadside restaurants to fine dining rooms, you’ll find seafood topping menus everywhere (www.tasteofnovascotia.com).
Ogle Lunenburg’s Old Town. Hundreds of heritage buildings have earned this port community’s downtown core recognition from UNESCO (www.explorelunenburg.ca).
Explore the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. Turn back time to the mid-18th century at North America’s largest historical reconstruction (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/louisbourg).
Snap a picture at Peggy’s Cove. It’s almost obligatory to visit this seaside hamlet where one of the world’s most iconic lighthouses sits atop a slab of wave-blasted rock (www.peggyscoveregion.com).
Follow the Good Cheer Trail. On the first winery, cidery, craft brewery and distillery trail of its kind in Canada, you can sip beverages from dozens of local producers (www.goodcheertrail.com).
Tap your toes to old tunes. Be entertained the traditional way at a Cape Breton ceilidh or opt for the francophone alternative, a rousing Acadian soirée (www.novascotia.com/things-to-do/festivals-events/music).
Scenic Drives
The Cabot Trail delivers one of the most dramatic drives anywhere. The 298-km (186-mi.) road runs straight through Cape Breton Highlands National Park and, in places, rises and falls like a roller coaster as it follows the Atlantic coast.
Hugging the South Shore for 339 km (211 mi.), the Lighthouse Route boasts over 20 postcard-perfect beacons, including those at Peggy’s Cove and Cape Forchu. Charming towns like Mahone Bay and Lunenburg make ideal stopovers.
The 291-km (181-mi.) Evangeline Trail connects Yarmouth and Mount Uniacke. Named for Longfellow’s tragic narrative, Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie, it showcases the scenery that inspired his setting.
Family Fun
Animated by buskers, glass-blowers and tour-boat operators, Halifax’s working waterfront has proven kid appeal. Along it lies the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca), the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (www.pier21.ca), plus the hands-on Discovery Centre (www.thediscoverycentre.ca). When hunger hits, refuel at the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market (www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com). Experience the Bluenose II on a 2-hour cruise in Lunenburg or Halifax (bluenose.novascotia.ca).