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Travel Guide to Canada

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

KILDARE CAPES • ©TOURISM PEI / SANDER MEURS

Spoiled for Choice

By Susan Maccallum-Whitcomb

Canada’s smallest province is certainly a colourful place. Ringed by clear blue water, PEI includes emerald-green fields, iconic red cliffs and beaches blessed with white or pink sand.  Like the palette, the vacation possibilities here are varied and, as a result, the Island attracts people with many different interests.

Canada’s Food Island 

Without a doubt, Prince Edward Island has become an international culinary destination. This year, starting in late September through mid-October expect to sample island flavours in the annual “Fall Flavours” festival. Hardly a month goes by without new restaurants, food tours and culinary experiences sprouting on the scene. There are also places to learn how to cook like a pro. Culinary Boot Camps—including one for kids—are a big hit at Holland College, regarded by many as Canada’s premier culinary institute. Another foodie favourite is the new experience at the Old General Catering House where you can cook, learn recipe secrets and gather around the table with new friends. Need something to wash down all that fab food? The province’s craft breweries, wineries and distilleries have you covered (www.tourismpei.com/what-to-do/culinary).

Nirvana For Anne Fans

Anne of Green Gables author Lucy Maud Montgomery, who was born and buried in PEI, introduced her title character in 1908; in print ever since, her beloved book has sold more than 50 million copies. But it is not only readers who adore the feisty red-haired heroine. Playgoers have given Anne of Green Gables—The Musical a record-breaking run at the Charlottetown Festival. Moving forward, the musical will only be produced every two years and will return to the stage in 2024, just in time to mark the 150th anniversary of Lucy Maude Montgomery’s birth. Fans also flock to the Cavendish area to visit themed attractions such as Montgomery’s Cavendish home, the recreated Avonlea Village and, of course, Green Gables Heritage Place, which features the bucolic 19th century farm that inspired her setting (www.tourismpei.com/what-to-do/anne-of-green-gables).

A Fantasyland For Families

Anne sites aside, the Island has a lot to offer families. Beach babies, for example, could spend their entire trip on Island strands, although there are also lighthouses to climb, bike and boat trips to take, plus enough enjoyable festivals to fill any calendar. PEI’s national park and 21 provincial parks offer family-oriented activities. Classic vacation venues have their own appeal: Shining Waters Family Fun Park, Sandspit Amusement Park, and Ripley’s Believe It or Not! are all perennial favourites. As if that isn’t enough, Experience PEI runs cool hands-on programs that combine entertainment and education (www.tourismpei.com/what-to-do).

More In Store

And that’s just the beginning . . . Pretty, comparatively flat terrain, coupled with top-notch facilities, make PEI popular with both cyclists and golfers. Wedding parties come as well, attracted by the postcard-perfect vistas and pastoral atmosphere, while anglers are lured in by the prospect of catching species that range from brook trout and mackerel to big bluefin tuna. If dancing the night away or shopping till you drop are on your wish list, no problem. Love theatre and musical productions? There’s no shortage of options. Want to immerse yourself in the local culture? You can tick that box here, too, thanks to a broad menu of innovative experiential activities. So whatever your passion, you’ll be spoiled for choice. 

What’s New?      

The Island Walk is a 700 km (435 mi.) walking trail that loops around PEI. With a perfect landscape in both terrain and scenery, there are options for everyone to complete the entire route or tackle it in sections, with routes available on the website (theislandwalk.ca).

45 Steps – The Culinary Beachside Inn is a unique boutique hotel in Goose River. It is only “45 Steps” from the Gulf of St. Lawrence and offers the best in Island food, culture and coastline. An open kitchen allows for a special dining experience (www.45stepsinn.ca).

Ride Solar in Charlottetown Harbour in this fully electric solar-powered vessel.  Choose from a daily breakfast, lunch, dinner or a late-night kitchen party cruise. Enjoy beautiful views of the harbour while indulging in a wonderfully-crafted local repas (www.ridesolar.com). 

Sea Rocket Oyster House is located in one of Charlottetown’s most beautiful historic properties on Victoria Row, with the Confederation Centre across the street.  It is one of the city’s newest restaurants, serving fresh PEI oysters and seafood (www.searocket.ca).

Located on St. Peters Harbour, Mysa Nordic Spa & Resort offers thermal experiences and spa services. Savour top-notch food and beverages at the on-site restaurant or, for a peaceful respite, book an overnight stay in one of the newly-renovated cottages overlooking the grounds and the bay (www.mysanordicspa.com).

City Lights  

The 2017 sesquicentennial celebrations only underscored the role Charlottetown played in Confederation. Top attractions like Province House, which is currently undergoing renovations, and Ardgowan, both national historic sites, were central to the events, while Confederation Landing and the Confederation Centre of the Arts—a waterfront recreation area and world-class cultural centre, respectively—reflect its legacy. But this place appeals as much to foodies as history buffs, thanks to its vibrant restaurant scene. Throughout Charlottetown, you’ll also find walking trails, waterside boardwalks and specialty shops (www.discovercharlottetown.com).

Although the City of Summerside is smaller than the provincial capital, it too has a bustling waterfront replete with indoor and outdoor theatres, interesting boutiques and eateries. Acadian influences are apparent here, as are Celtic ones. You can see the latter come to life at rousing shows featuring bagpipe-playing, step-dancing, fiddling and snare drumming hosted by the College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada (www.exploresummerside.com).

The Great Outdoors   

The renowned local beaches aren’t just for swimmers, sunbathers and sandcastle builders. For instance, the rare parabolic dune system in the Greenwich Dunes Trail section of PEI National Park also acts as a stunning backdrop to an extensive trail system complete with a floating boardwalk that’s perfect for a leisurely stroll (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pei).    

Hikers and bikers alike love the PEI portion of the Trans Canada Trail—the Confederation Trail—which stretches 435 km (270 mi.) from Tignish in the west to Elmira in the east, and connects to the Island’s two entry points. Ambitious cyclists can pedal it from end to end, while competitive ones can enter the three-day Gran Fondo PEI event in August (www.tourismpei.com/what-to-do/events; www.granfondo-pei.ca).     

Great golfing is also par for the course on PEI There are many spots open to the public from May through October, and they are all within an hour’s drive of each other. The Links at Crowbush Cove, Dundarave, and Mill River are among the premier picks (www.golfpei.ca). 

Throughout the Island there are endless other opportunities for visitors wanting a fresh-air fix. Kayaking, paddleboarding, fishing, birdwatching, horseback riding—the list goes on. Enjoy a do-it-yourself activity or join one of Experience PEI’s group offerings to try unique alternatives like potato farming or clam digging (www.experiencepei.ca).

Heritage And Culture  

The Arts & Heritage Trail—an Island-wide guide for authentic PEI cultural experiences—provides an overview with elements such as museums and historic sites, performing arts venues, special events, theatres, galleries, craft shops and artisan studios (www.artsandheritagepei.ca). 

To get a taste of Acadian culture, visit the Acadian Museum in Miscouche for a history lesson; then head to Village Musical Acadien for traditional food and fiddle tunes (www.museeacadien.org; www.villagemusical.ca).

If you prefer Celtic music, follow the provincial tourism board’s themed itinerary. Choices run from casual ceilidhs and concerts to professionally-staged shows and fun festivals.

To learn more about the Island’s Indigenous heritage, be sure to drop by the Lennox Island Mi’kmaq Cultural Centre or attend drum-driven powwows and other related events held across the province (www.experiencelennoxisland.com). 

Must See, Must Do  

From Cavendish’s tourist-friendly strand to the pristine beaches at Greenwich National Park and Basin Head Provincial Park’s silica-rich “singing sands,” PEI has a beach to suit every taste. Better yet, they’re lapped by some of the warmest waters north of the Carolinas (www.tourismpei.com/what-to-do/beaches-parks). 

Many shellfish fans call the Island Canada’s oyster capital because its prized Malpeque variety, drawn from the eponymous bay, have set the gold standard for more than a century. Sample them waterside or slurp some back at the Fall Flavours Festival, Tyne Valley Oyster Festival or the island’s International Shellfish Festival (www.fallflavours.ca, https://tvoysterfest.ca, www.peishellfish.com). 

Conceived by celebrity chef Michael Smith, The Inn at Bay Fortune’s FireWorks Feast features multiple courses cooked in a 7.5-m-long (25-ft.) wood-burning, fire-breathing stove that has an integrated smokehouse, hearth, grill, plancha, rotisserie and oven (www.innatbayfortune.com).

The entire world seems to know about COWS ice cream. Its 32 varieties are available at several locations in PEI, but you can get the inside scoop at COWS Creamery on the outskirts of Charlottetown, which offers tasty and educational tours (www.cows.ca; www.cowscreamery.ca).

Scenic Drives  

The 350-km (217-mi.) North Cape Coastal Drive is full of contrasts. It’s quickly getting a reputation as the Canadian Oyster Coast. There is everything here from Mi’kmaq and Acadian communities to secluded beaches and towering wind turbines (www.northcapedrive.com). 

The 253-km (157-mi.) Central Coastal Drive—which includes Green Gables Shore and Red Sands Shore—covers key Anne sites and PEI National Park, plus communities ranging from Cavendish to quaint Victoria-by-the-Sea (www.centralcoastalpei.com). 

The 475-km (295-mi.) Points East Coastal Drive is dotted with lighthouses and lined with 50-odd beaches. There are timely attractions, too—among them Orwell Corner Historic Village and Roma at Three Rivers National Historic Site (www.pointseastcoastaldrive.com). 

Family Fun                                    

Kids of all ages love making sandcastles, and Maurice Bernard is the expert in residence at PEI National Park. You can sign up for Experience PEI’s “Sensational Sandcastles” program to receive a private sandcastle building lesson with a professional sand sculptor (www.tourismpei.com/experiences/sensational-sandcastles; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pei).

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