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Saskatchewan
Land of Living Skies
By Robin And Arlene Karpan
Saskatchewan licence plates proudly proclaim the “Land of Living Skies,” a poetic salute to the province’s big open skies, clear air, dancing northern lights and breathtaking spectacles during bird migrations. Sunrises and sunsets have a well-deserved reputation as the most dazzling on the planet.
Nature At Its Finest
Beneath those skies lies a tremendously diverse landscape. Head south to ride the open range in some of the largest expanses of rare native grasslands left in North America, explore rugged badlands or venture north to choose among 100,000 lakes famous for fishing, and a boundless network of unspoiled wild rivers. Then there are unique landscapes such as the Cypress Hills with its enchanting mix of highlands, grasslands and forest (www.cypresshills.com), or the mysterious Crooked Bush in the Thickwood Hills.
Saskatchewan is the sand dune capital of Canada, boasting both the largest and second largest dunes in the country, plus a few others thrown in for variety. The vast, other-worldly Athabasca Sand Dunes are some of the largest active dunes this far north anywhere in the world. Situated along the south shore of Lake Athabasca in a pristine northern setting, these dunes support some 50 rare plants and offer the ultimate wilderness adventure.
A Rich Legacy
With locations in Saskatoon, Moose Jaw, North Battleford and Yorkton, the Western Development Museum is the most prominent chronicler of Saskatchewan’s early years (www.wdm.ca). The Hepburn Museum of Wheat, a half-hour north of Saskatoon, makes it easy to experience that most iconic prairie symbol—the traditional wooden grain elevator. Other key historic markers include the Northwest Mounted Police (NWMP), established for three reasons: to protect Canada’s borders from American encroachment, engage in diplomatic efforts with Indigenous communities, and maintain order among settlers and traders. Their formation gained urgency after the Cypress Hills massacre, leading to the establishment of Fort Walsh, a historic site commemorating their pivotal role in Canadian frontier history (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fortwalsh).
Visitors are always awe-struck by the remarkable rare book collection at the Athol Murray College of Notre Dame in Wilcox, just south of Regina. It houses the largest collection of 13th to 17th century books and manuscripts in Canada—everything from original treatises of philosophers and saints to handwritten decrees by popes and kings. To really go back in time, over 6,400 years, head to Wanuskewin Heritage Park in a scenic valley on Saskatoon’s northern outskirts (www.wanuskewin.com). It remains Canada’s longest archaeological dig (over 40 years) of pre-contact occupation sites on the North American Great Plains. Ancient archaeological finds including two bison kill sites meld with a vibrant present-day Indigenous culture. Wanuskewin Heritage Park has been added to Canada’s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Enjoying The Best
Given that Saskatchewan is a major food producer, it is not surprising that folks here like to eat well. With a cuisine reflecting local products and the province’s diverse ethnic makeup, there are more food-centred events than you can shake a skewer stick at. Try Mortlach’s Saskatoon Berry Festival (www.mortlach.ca) or take in the Foodtruck Wars Street Festival (www.foodtruckwarsyxe.com) where top food trucks from across Saskatchewan face off in Saskatoon.
Calling Saskatchewan golf-crazy is an understatement; the number of courses per capita is among the highest in the country. Choose from hidden gems in small communities to famous award-winners such as Dakota Dunes Golf Links (www.dakotadunes.ca), Saskatchewan’s #1 Ranked Public Course according to SCOREGolf. For an extensive listing, see www.saskgolfer.com.
What’s New
Wapaha Sk̄a Oyate: Living Our Culture, Sharing Our Community at Pion-Era (WDM Saskatoon) is a new permanent exhibit on display at the Western Development Museum. In collaboration between the Whitecap Dakota First Nation and WDM, this exhibit shares both Indigenous and non-Indigenous perspectives (www.wdm.ca/exhibits/whitecap).
At Remai Modern, Views from the Blue House: The Remai Modern Collection is a dazzling collection of 8,000+ works, including Henri Masson’s iconic “The Blue House.” For lunch, enjoy fine views as you dine at the new restaurant Hearth (www.remaimodern.org).
Experience a unique teepee sleepover at the Wanuskewin Tipi Village. Relive the stories of the Northern Plains peoples who came to hunt bison, gather food and medicines and escape the winter winds (www.wanuskewin.com).
Join Meewasin conservationist Jamie McMillan for an adult-only evening of delicious local food and beverages with a tour that takes a light-hearted look at the mating and courtship strategies of the wildlife at Beaver Creek Conservation Area. Piloted last season and back by popular demand, it runs on alternative Thursdays from July 11 through August 22 from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm (www.meewasin.com/naughty-by-nature).
City Lights
Regina’s heart is Wascana Centre, one of the largest urban parks in North America. It is home to several key attractions including the Saskatchewan Legislative Building, lined by an impressive summer flower garden; the Saskatchewan Science Centre and Kramer IMAX Theatre; and the Royal Saskatchewan Museum, interpreting everything from the Age of Dinosaurs to Saskatchewan’s diverse landscapes and wildlife, and Indigenous Peoples link to the land (www.wascana.sk.ca). Government House, with its impressive Edwardian Garden, captures a bygone era when this was the residence of the Lieutenant Governor (www.governmenthousesk.ca). Regina is famous as the home of the RCMP, where Mounties have trained since 1885. The RCMP Heritage Centre showcases the history of this world-renowned police force (www.rcmphc.com).
Saskatoon’s most defining feature is its beautiful riverbank along the South Saskatchewan River—home to parks, walking trails, numerous festivals and the popular River Landing development in the south downtown (discoversaskatoon.com). For a different perspective of the heart of Saskatoon, climb aboard the Prairie Lily riverboat for a one-hour river cruise, or opt for a Sunday brunch or dinner cruise (www.theprairielily.com).
Moose Jaw has capitalized on its Roaring Twenties’ past when it was a hotbed for Prohibition-era bootlegging and gangster activity. The Tunnels of Moose Jaw runs tours recreating this colourful time when Al Capone was rumoured to have been a regular visitor (www.tunnelsofmoosejaw.com).
The Great Outdoors
Saskatchewan is known as a stellar canoeing destination, offering everything from adrenaline-pumping whitewater to tranquility in stunning wilderness. Churchill River Canoe Outfitters is the go-to source for guided trips, equipment rentals, and advice (www.churchillrivercanoe.com). Get a taste for ranch life in Cypress Hills’ cowboy country, where the Historic Reesor Ranch offers everything from trail rides to cattle drives (www.reesorranch.com).
The fishing in Saskatchewan is legendary, where trophy-sized catches are practically taken for granted. For the ultimate experience, head to a remote fly-in lodge for a combination of exceptional fishing and resort-style pampering in pristine forested lakelands. The Saskatchewan Commission of Professional Outfitters lists sport fishing operators that meet high standards (www.scpo.ca).
Situated on the Central North American Migratory Flyway, Saskatchewan is a bird-watcher’s dream. Among the easiest hot spots to visit is Chaplin Lake, right beside the Trans-Canada Highway. The lake is so significant that the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network named it a Site of Hemispheric Importance. Each spring, a hundred thousand migrating shorebirds of some 30 species stop here to feed on their northward migration, including half the world’s sanderlings. Learn more from the exhibits at the Chaplin Nature Centre or take in a tour (www.naturesask.ca).
Heritage And Culture
Follow driving tours through the Trails of 1885 to relive a challenging era in the development of the West, when the disappearance of the buffalo and the increasing pace of settlement led to unrest by some Indigenous bands and the Métis under Louis Riel (www.tourismsaskatoon.com/plan-your-trip/suggested-itineraries/the-trails-of-1885).
A great way to get in touch with Saskatchewan’s contemporary Indigenous culture is to attend a powwow. Powerful drumming, chanting singers and swirling dancers in brilliant outfits make for an unforgettable experience. Powwows carry on traditions, but also serve as social gatherings and dance competitions. Above all, they are a lot of fun. One of the biggest is the annual Spring Powwow at Regina’s First Nations University (www.fnunivpowwow.ca).
Saskatchewan culture is defined by its rich mixture of ethnic backgrounds. Saskatoon’s Ukrainian Museum of Canada, for example, chronicles the contributions of this prominent segment of Saskatchewan’s makeup (www.umcnational.ca). In south central Saskatchewan, join a farming community where certified organic fruit growers like Over the Hill Orchards have a true prairie paradise (www.overthehillorchards.ca).
